Well made clothing is all about the details – a hidden pocket in the lining of a jacket is one small detail that can make your work look professional and add a functional element.
First, decide which side of the jacket you’d like your hidden pocket on. The pocket goes in the lining, so think extra hard about exactly where you want the pocket. For example, we’re putting this pocket on a double breasted jacket – we’re going to put it on the lapel that is closest to the body.
Second, cut out two rectangles that are approximately the size of the pocket you’d like to create. Make sure they’re big enough to fit something like a wallet, credit card, ID, etc.
Draw a rectangle on one of the pocket pieces you already cut out. Make it approximately 0.5″ high and about 1.5″ less than the total width of your zipper. Set aside the other pocket piece for later.
Pin the pocket piece with the rectangle on your jacket lining. Make sure you pin it exactly where you want it. If you are unsure of the pocket placement, try on the lining or put it on a mannequin. This technique requires cutting into the lining – so you need to get the pocket placement right the first time!
Stitch all the way around your rectangle. We did two lines of stitching for extra reinforcement.
Make sure the rectangle is nice and even. Clip your extra threads. Don’t forget to reinforce the corners and backstitch a little at the beginning and ending of your stitches.
It is crucial that the following three steps are done correctly, otherwise you will not have a clean edge to sew your zipper around.
Cut a line down the center of your rectangle. Stop the cut a little over 0.25″ from the right and left edges of the stitch line. Be careful not to clip your stitch line!
Clip your rectangle in a NW direction. Be careful not to clip your stitch line!
Clip your rectangle in a SW direction. Be careful not to clip your stitch line!
Turn the pocket piece inside out, to the side of the lining that is facing away from the body.
This is what the other side will look like.
Now, it is flat, neat, and pretty.
Get ready to put the zipper in!
Flip over your lining again, and pin your zipper in place. Make sure at least 0.5″ of zipper extend past the right and left sides of the rectangle.
Get a zipper foot!
Stitch all the way around the rectangle. Ideally, you want the stitch line to be about 1/16″ or 1/8″ from the edge.
Make the corners nice and sharp!
Flip over your lining. Place the other pocket piece on top of the one you just stitched. Line up the pocket pieces.
Pin the two pocket pieces together.
Stitch the pocket pieces together.
See the stuff on the right side of the jacket? That’s the pocket!
Use your new pocket! For variations, try double piping, no zipper, or even use this technique for adding decorative zippers to the outside of garments.