This tutorial will outline the way we do criss-cross backs on our pigtail wigs.  The wigs look more complicated than they are!  More so than any sort of special skill, criss crossing your wig just takes a little patience and attention to detail.  Enjoy!

You will need the following:

  • Base wig (preferably, one with a full skin top – button tops are not ideal, but can still work)
  • Approximately 4 yards (or two packs) of wefted extensions
  • Thread to match your extensions
  • Curved needle
  • Aquanet (or any other light/medium hold hairspray)
  • Volumax (or any other heavy duty freeze spray)
  • Aligator clips
  • Small rubber bands
  • Tail comb
  • T-pins (sewing pins will work, too)
  • Wig head

Let’s get started!


Take your wefted extensions, and sew them around the perimeter of your wig.  For the elastic parts, sew them in a zig zag pattern.  Depending upon the thickness of your base wig and extensions, you may need to do this more than once.

Section off the wig into four areas:

1. Bangs
2. Right side
3. Back
4. Left side

I like to use the vertical elastics on the wig as a general guide.

Create two little pigtails, using as much of the skin part as possible.  Make sure they are even, as you will add to these through out the styling process.

Alternate view of the starter pigtail.

Using your tail comb, section off some hair, just a few wefts below the starter pigtail.For now, just section off hair located on the side of the wig.  Leave the perimeter hair you added earlier alone.

Use your tail comb to smooth out this section of hair.  Give it a mist with light/medium hold hair spray.

Combine it with your starter pigtail using a small rubberband.

What about those stray hairs sticking out?

If you can’t smooth them down with hairspray, trim them.  You’ll likely have to do one of these things after each layer is pulled up.  You can just pull all the layers up at once, but I find that doing them in small sections makes it easier to get everything nice and smooth.

Use your tail comb to section off some more hair.  Generally, I work with 1-2 wefts at a time.

You don’t have to rubberband the hair sections together every time.  If you did, you’d end up with a HUGE pigtail.  Keep your sections together with an alligator clip for now. This doesn’t look so nice yet…

Make sure your wig is pinned securely to your wighead. Spray your clipped hair section, then using your tail comb, smooth out all your layers at once.

Rubberband all the sections to your starter pigtail.

Now, you can pull up the top half of that perimeter hair.  Make sure it looks nice and clean as this will be your outside layer.

Pull up the bottom half of the perimeter hair.

Rubberband it all to the starter pigtail.Now, you’re finished with one side of your wig!  Repeat this process with the other side.Once you’re happy with the sides, give them a final mist with your freeze spray.

Tip: Light/medium hold hairspray = working spray.  Freeze spray (heavy duty hold) = finishing spray.

Now, you should have two pigtails.  Using your tail comb, section off the back portion of the wig into two equal halves.

At this point, I adjust my wigstand so that the wighead is tilted forward.  This helps to keep the two halves divided, as it forces the hair to hang on either side of the head.

Use your tail comb to section off hair that is one weft down from your starter pigtail, but only on the right side of the wig.

Spray, comb, then pull it over to the side and secure it with an alligator clip.

Do the same thing to the other side.  Section off hair one track below the starter pigtail, but only on the left side.

Spray, comb, pull.  Secure it with an alligator clip.

Working one track/one side at a time, continue this process.

Keep going…

Just like the sides, you’ll have to spray down/trim stray hairs.

Once you’ve gotten most of the crown hair clipped off…

Smooth out one side with your tail comb.  Remember, a little hair spray will help keep things looking smooth.

Then, rubberband it to your starter pigtail.

crisscross29

The top of your wig is finished!

Now, you’ll have to start adding extra hair.  I pin mine in place, and then…

Sew it onto the wig using a curved needle and coordinating thread. For the best coverage, add one additional track to each pre-existing track.  If you’re running low on extra wefts, you can skip the very middle section (area of 5 or so wefts) as all the criss-crosses end up covering it pretty well.  But, once you get to the bottom half of the wig, it is important that each pre-existing weft gets a new weft buddy.

Once your tracks are sewn in, start criss crossing again.  Remember…spray, comb, pull.

Occasionally, instead of crossing, you’ll have to pull your hair section to the same side.  Otherwise, you’ll end up with an awesome middle part, but very sparse sides.

Eventually, you’ll end up with something like this.  Do your final spray, comb, and pull.  Rubberband it to the starter pigtail, and then you’ll be…

…finished!

I generally finish each pigtail with a regular ponytail holder (or two).  After that, I give everything a final mist with my freeze spray.At this point you can style the pigtails, add odangos, add a baby hair track, etc.
Thanks for reading my tutorial!