Installing Zippers v1

Introduction to Zippers (v1)
Visible Zippers

When a button or snap just won’t do, a zipper may be the solution! There are many types of zippers and ways to install them – visible, invisible, lapped, centered, etc. Today, we’re going to learn how to install a separating zipper – and how to make it stand out! This is best suited for sport zippers with large teeth.

Besides the obvious, you’ll need:

  • Zipper foot (don’t even think about using a regular sewing foot it just won’t work)
  • Chopstick (all will be explained)

Step One: Pin It!

Pin your zipper to the edge of the garment opening. Make sure the teeth are facing AWAY from the opening. Remember, you’ll be flipping the edge over later.Note: This particular garment has a horizontal seam under the bust. We made sure the seams matched up once the zipper was installed. Keep these kinds of things in mind if your design has similar elements (horizontal seams, patterns, stripes, etc.)

Step Two: Sew It!

You will now be sewing through two layers (1) the zipper and (2) your garment. Using your zipper foot, sew the teeth edge of the zipper. Stay as close to the zipper teeth as possible without stitching into them.

Step Three: Sew It Again!

Move your zipper foot over to the non-teeth edge of the zipper. Stitch down the zipper in the same manner as above. These two lines of stitches will keep the zipper secure.

Step Four: Pin It Again!

There are many ways to finish the top of your zipper. We did simple arm and neckline facings for this garment, so we will incorporate the zipper finishing into the neckline facing finishing.

Pin your facing in place. This same type of technique can be done with a lining as well.

Step Five: Sew Some More!

Sew along the top of the neckline. We used a regular zipper foot for this part. Depending on how close the stopper teeth (top of the zipper) are to the top of the garment opening, you may need to use a zipper foot for this first few stitches.

Step Six: More Sewing!

Sew down the vertical edge of the zipper. Make sure to reinforce the corner where your stitches meet!

Step Seven: Clip It!

Clip your corners!

Step Eight: Chopstick!

Turn the facing right side out, and get a crisp corner by poking it with your chopstick. Be careful not to poke through your garment. Make sure to clip any extra threads!

Step Nine: Clip It Good!

This isn’t necessarily related to the zipper installation – but remember to clip the edges around the neckline too if you’re doing a facing or a lining.

Step Ten: Almost Done!

Iron down the edges around the zipper. If you want to get fancy, you can do a top stitch on either side of the zipper, too.

Step Eleven: Finished!

This is one of the garments we installed a zipper on recently! Cute, eh? This is only one of thirteen sailor tops we did for the Denim Demons – a roller derby team out of Atlanta.

Fluffy Bangs Tutorial

We style a lot of wigs for anime characters and one thing that a lot of them have in common is…fluffy bangs! From Sailor Moon to Inuyasha, a full, voluminous bang can take a wig from ordinary to extraordinary! In this tutorial, you will learn how to add fabulous bangs to your own wig! You will need the following tools:

  • Base wig (with bangs cut in already)
  • Wig head
  • T-pins
  • Hairpins or alligator clips
  • Wig stand (I like to use a camera tripod)
  • Hot rollers (get the velvet-covered kind)
  • Working hairspray (medium to heavy hold)
  • Finishing hairspray (freeze spray)
  • Flat brush
  • Tail comb

Step One:

Secure your wig to a wig head with t-pins. It is very important that the wig doesn’t move around while you’re styling it. Secure the wig head to a sturdy wig stand. There are many types of wig stands. Some clamp onto the edge of a table, some are free standing, and some are just re-purposed items! I like to use an old camera tripod!

Also, make sure to turn on your hot rollers! By the time you’ve secured your wig head and sectioned out all the hair, they’ll probably be warm enough to use.

Step Two:

Part your bangs down the center, and clip one side out of the way using a large bobby pin or alligator clip.

Step Three:

Now, you will begin sectioning off the hair. I generally work in 1/4″ to 3/8″ sections. The best tool for creating nice, clean sections is a tail comb.

Step Four:

This part is super important! Using your working hairspray, give the hair a little spritz. Smooth out the hair with your comb, then wrap it around your hot roller. The hot rollers I’m using are about 1.25″ wide.

Step Five:

While the first roller is cooling off, go ahead and do the same thing to the other side of your wig. As you do this, make sure you move your hairpin/clip around to keep both sides separated.

Wait for both rollers to cool completely.

Step Six:

After your rollers have completely cooled, unroll them!

Step Seven:

It looks very odd right now, but just go with it. Now, repeat the rolling process for the rest of the hair, working with one roller per side at a time. You can place multiple rollers in front of each other, but you won’t get as much lift at the root as you would if you just wait a little in between each one.

Step Eight:

Rolling, rolling, rolling…

Step Nine:

Still rolling, rolling, rolling…

Step Ten:

Alright, I know this looks like a complete birds’ nest right now. But, don’t panic! Just…

Step Eleven:

Brush it out using your flat brush. As I brush out the curls, I pull the brush back so I can get a pretty swoop as seen below…

Step Twelve:

And, now we’ve got one half of our wig done! Brush out the other half, and you’ll be finished!

Thank you for viewing my tutorial!

Criss Cross Tutorial

This tutorial will outline the way we do criss-cross backs on our pigtail wigs.  The wigs look more complicated than they are!  More so than any sort of special skill, criss crossing your wig just takes a little patience and attention to detail.  Enjoy!

You will need the following:

  • Base wig (preferably, one with a full skin top – button tops are not ideal, but can still work)
  • Approximately 4 yards (or two packs) of wefted extensions
  • Thread to match your extensions
  • Curved needle
  • Aquanet (or any other light/medium hold hairspray)
  • Volumax (or any other heavy duty freeze spray)
  • Aligator clips
  • Small rubber bands
  • Tail comb
  • T-pins (sewing pins will work, too)
  • Wig head

Let’s get started!

Take your wefted extensions, and sew them around the perimeter of your wig.  For the elastic parts, sew them in a zig zag pattern.  Depending upon the thickness of your base wig and extensions, you may need to do this more than once.

Section off the wig into four areas:

1. Bangs
2. Right side
3. Back
4. Left side

I like to use the vertical elastics on the wig as a general guide.

Create two little pigtails, using as much of the skin part as possible.  Make sure they are even, as you will add to these through out the styling process.

Alternate view of the starter pigtail.

Using your tail comb, section off some hair, just a few wefts below the starter pigtail.For now, just section off hair located on the side of the wig.  Leave the perimeter hair you added earlier alone.

Use your tail comb to smooth out this section of hair.  Give it a mist with light/medium hold hair spray.

Combine it with your starter pigtail using a small rubberband.

What about those stray hairs sticking out?

If you can’t smooth them down with hairspray, trim them.  You’ll likely have to do one of these things after each layer is pulled up.  You can just pull all the layers up at once, but I find that doing them in small sections makes it easier to get everything nice and smooth.

Use your tail comb to section off some more hair.  Generally, I work with 1-2 wefts at a time.

You don’t have to rubberband the hair sections together every time.  If you did, you’d end up with a HUGE pigtail.  Keep your sections together with an alligator clip for now. This doesn’t look so nice yet…

Make sure your wig is pinned securely to your wighead. Spray your clipped hair section, then using your tail comb, smooth out all your layers at once.

Rubberband all the sections to your starter pigtail.

Now, you can pull up the top half of that perimeter hair.  Make sure it looks nice and clean as this will be your outside layer.

Pull up the bottom half of the perimeter hair.

Rubberband it all to the starter pigtail.Now, you’re finished with one side of your wig!  Repeat this process with the other side.Once you’re happy with the sides, give them a final mist with your freeze spray.

Tip: Light/medium hold hairspray = working spray.  Freeze spray (heavy duty hold) = finishing spray.

Now, you should have two pigtails.  Using your tail comb, section off the back portion of the wig into two equal halves.

At this point, I adjust my wigstand so that the wighead is tilted forward.  This helps to keep the two halves divided, as it forces the hair to hang on either side of the head.

Use your tail comb to section off hair that is one weft down from your starter pigtail, but only on the right side of the wig.

Spray, comb, then pull it over to the side and secure it with an alligator clip.

Do the same thing to the other side.  Section off hair one track below the starter pigtail, but only on the left side.

Spray, comb, pull.  Secure it with an alligator clip.

Working one track/one side at a time, continue this process.

Keep going…

Just like the sides, you’ll have to spray down/trim stray hairs.

Once you’ve gotten most of the crown hair clipped off…

Smooth out one side with your tail comb.  Remember, a little hair spray will help keep things looking smooth.

Then, rubberband it to your starter pigtail.


The top of your wig is finished!

Now, you’ll have to start adding extra hair.  I pin mine in place, and then…

Sew it onto the wig using a curved needle and coordinating thread. For the best coverage, add one additional track to each pre-existing track.  If you’re running low on extra wefts, you can skip the very middle section (area of 5 or so wefts) as all the criss-crosses end up covering it pretty well.  But, once you get to the bottom half of the wig, it is important that each pre-existing weft gets a new weft buddy.

Once your tracks are sewn in, start criss crossing again.  Remember…spray, comb, pull.

Occasionally, instead of crossing, you’ll have to pull your hair section to the same side.  Otherwise, you’ll end up with an awesome middle part, but very sparse sides.

Eventually, you’ll end up with something like this.  Do your final spray, comb, and pull.  Rubberband it to the starter pigtail, and then you’ll be…


I generally finish each pigtail with a regular ponytail holder (or two).  After that, I give everything a final mist with my freeze spray.At this point you can style the pigtails, add odangos, add a baby hair track, etc.
Thanks for reading my tutorial!

Adding Cuffs to Pants

Whether it is for a costume or your “office” clothes, knowing how to add a cuff to a pair of pants is simpler than you may think!  Below, we will go over this technique, step by step.  You will need:

  • Iron
  • Measuring tape or gauge
  • Needle
  • Thread
  • Serger (optional)
  • Ironing ham (optional)

Let’s get started!

Step One: Get Some Pants

For this tutorial, we are shortening a pair of pants as well as adding cuffs.  If you are just adding cuffs (not shortening), skip to step three.  We will give these pants a 1.5″ hem.  For any pair of pants that you are adding a cuff to, make sure you have an EXTRA 4″ past what you want to be the final pant length to be.  For example, if you want the pants to have a 31″ inseam, but want to add a cuff, you will need to have a starting inseam length of 35″.

Step Two: Cut the Pants

Cut off any excess pant fabric.  As mentioned above, make sure you have 4″ EXTRA than the final inseam length you need.

Step Three: Finish the Edge

You can either serge the edge or finish it with a pair of pinking shears.  For this tutorial, we will serge the edge.

Step Four: Ham and Measure

Get an ironing ham and your measuring gauge.  Warm up your iron.  The ham is optional, but incredibly useful and highly recommended.

Step Five: Measure 1″

Fold up a 1″ hem to the INSIDE of your pants.

Step Six: Iron It!

Iron the hem into place.

Step Seven: Measure 1.5″

Fold up a 1.5″ hem to the inside of your pants.  At this point, the 1″ hem will be enclosed inside this hem.  This is only temporary.

Step Eight: Iron It!

Iron the 1.5″ hem into place.


Step Nine: Fold to the Outside

Fold your hem over to the OUTSIDE of your pants.  Double check to make sure it measures 1.5″ – if you match up the bottom edges, this shouldn’t be a problem.

Step Ten: Iron It!

Iron your new hem into place.


Step Eleven: Bring out the 1″ Hem

Flip the 1″ hem (the first one you ironed) to the inside of the pants.

Step Twelve: Pin It!

Pin your hem in place.

Step Thirteen: Stitch It!

Stitch your hem into place.  This can be done with a blindstitch machine or by hand.  We have demonstrated, in a contrasting thread, how to stitch the hem in place by hand.  When you stitch it into place, make sure you only catch a small amount of fabric, as you don’t want your stitches to be visible on the outside of the garment.

Step Fourteen: Anchor Stitches at the Seams

Make sure you anchor the cuffs at the side seams of the pants with a few stitches.  If you do not anchor the cuffs at these areas, they will eventually flop over.

Step Fifteen: Finished!

You’re all finished!  Enjoy your newly cuffed pants!

Snap Placement

When placing multiple snaps on a garment – for closures or just to keep things in place – sometimes getting things to line up just right can be a bit of a challenge.  Here is a little trick I like to use to make sure my snaps always line up perfectly!

Step One: Sew One Part of Your Snap

We are working on a garment with an overlapping front that will have a zipper closure, plus snaps to keep the overlap nice and flat.  As you can see below, I have already sewn the “male” part of the snap sets and folded the overlap open.

Step Two: Get Some Chalk

Tailor’s chalk will work just fine.  Make sure whatever you use, it can easily be rubbed off later.

Step Three: Rub On the Chalk

Rub the chalk generously over each of your snaps.  Make sure you get a nice coating!

Step Four: Transfer Your Chalk Markings

Gently fold the overlap back into place.

Step Five: Admire Your Chalk Markings

Now, you have a clear mark of where to put the other part of each snap set.

Step Six: Sew On Your Snaps

Sew on the other part of each snap set, and you’re all finished!  Everything should line up really nicely =)

Questions?  Comments?  Suggestions?  Feel free to email me.

Facing your Garment



Creating a clean edge around garment openings (arm holes, necklines, etc.) can be accomplished in many ways. One of those ways is called facing a garment. Today, we’ll be learning how to create and sew facings for necklines. An addendum for arm holes will be posted in the future.

Useful Tools:

  • Fabric marker (pencil, chalk, etc.)
  • Sewing gage
  • Chopstick

Step One:

Start with your pattern pieces. Pictured are our back bodice piece (left) and front bodice piece (right). We will be focusing on the neckline area.

Step Two:

Draw in your seam allowances.

Step Three:

Pin your pattern pieces together at the shoulder seam, matching the lines you drew before.

Step Four:

Now you have one large piece to work with. By pinning the pattern pieces together we now have a continuous neckline.

Note: Feel free to cut the facing to each piece separately (don’t forget to cut the back piece on the fold) – I like this particular technique because it reduces bulk at the seams.

Step Five:

Pin your pattern to your fabric. Make sure the center back seam is on the fold. Cut around the neckline.

Step Six:

Ta da! Neckline cut!

Step Seven:

Time to get out your fabric marker and sewing gage.

Step Eight:

I like to make my facings anywhere from 2.5″ to 3.5″ wide – it is up to you. Set your gage and mark evenly all around your neckline cut.

Step Nine:

Now, you are ready to cut your neckline facing.

Step Ten:

Cut your fabric on the line you marked.

Step Eleven:

Now, you’ve got a neck facing.

Fancy Schmancy Tip: Cut a corresponding piece of interfacing for garments that need a little extra structure at the openings.

Step Twelve:

Serge the OUTER edge of your circle. You can serge the inner edge, but it isn’t necessary as much of it will be cut away later.

Fancy Schmancy Tip: Instead of serging the outer edge, sew a thin strip of bias tape along the edge. We use bias tape that is about 1/2″ to 3/4″ (of course, this is folded in half over the edge).

Step Thirteen:

Iron it!

Step Fourteen:

Pin the INNER edge of the facing to your neckline. Pay special attention to garments with openings (front or back). We have a front zipper opening, so we pinned all the way through the front seam allowance. Make sure you pin the facing to your garment so that the RIGHT SIDES are together. This is important as you’ll be flipping the facing to the inside of the garment later.

Step Fifteen:

Run a line of stitches down the INNER edge of your facing. Use whatever seam allowance you’ve used for the rest of the garment – in this case, we used 5/8″.

Step Sixteen:

Stitch the vertical edge of your facing by the garment opening. If there is a zipper, I recommend switching to your zipper foot so you can get close to the teeth (this will make sense later).

If your garment is continuous all the way around the neckline (wide neck design, or armhole for example) ignore this step.

Step Seventeen:

Cut out notches around your neckline curve. THIS STEP IS VERY IMPORTANT. If you don’t cut notches in your curve, your neckline won’t lay nice and flat.

Step Eighteen:

Turn the facing to the inside of the garment. Use a chopstick to make your corners sharp. Be careful not to poke through the corners.

Step Nineteen:

Iron it!

Step Twenty:

Run a line of stitches about 1/8″ from the seam where the facing and garment neckline meet.

Step Twenty-One:

Flip your facing to the inside of your garment and secure it with the hand stitch of your choice. Make sure your stitch is delicate and only catches as much fabric as you need to – you don’t want your stitches visible on the outside of the garment.

Note #1: White thread was used for visibility when photographing for tutorial. Generally, use a thread that matches your garment for this step.

Note #2: This technique is not recommended for delicate fabrics like satins unless they have already been flat lined OR you are using silk thread and extraordinarily tiny hand stitches. This tends to create little “puckers” that are visible on the outside of the garment. If you need to face a satin garment, try securing your facing at areas where seams meet (shoulder, side seam, etc.)


Give your garment one more final pressing and you’ll have a lovely, faced edge that looks neat, clean, and professional.

“V” Bootcover Toppers

These “V” shaped boot toppers are super easy and fun to make! These were made for a client to complete her Sera Myu Sailor Moon costume. Here is what you’ll need:

  • Bootcovers (or boots)
  • Thick white vinyl (upholstery)
  • Hot pink stretch pvc
  • Gold metallic spandex
  • Hot pink thread
  • Gold thread
  • Sewing machine
  • Baby powder
  • Heat-N-Bond (Ultrahold)
  • Drinking glass
  • Pencil
  • Scissors or a rotary cutter
  • Iron
  • Ruler
  • Fabric glue (FabriTac or E6000)

Step One

Start with a pair of boot covers (or boots) that have been cut at an angle. The boot covers should be short in the front, and taper to a point at the back. I highly suggest using a rotary cutter and ruler for all the straight cuts detailed in this tutorial. You will get much cleaner lines than if you use a pair of scissors.

Step Two

Get some Heat-N-Bond and cut two “V” shapes. I made these about 1.25″ wide. Make sure the angle you cut matches the same angle you cut into your bootcovers!

Step Three
I used stretch PVC in hot pink. This was my primary choice because it has a bright vibrant color and it won’t fray when you cut it. Since we will be applying this with Heat-N-Bond (in step seven) I cut some extras because it is very, very easy to apply too much heat, which can cause the PVC to melt =(

Step Four

Cut out some moons! For these shapes, I chose a metallic spandex. First, I applied Heat-B-Bond to the wrong side of the fabric. Then, I drew two moon shapes and cut through both the fabric and Heat-N-Bond. Having trouble finding a good circular shape? I raided my kitchen and traced around drinking glass =) To make the crescent shape, I just found a smaller circle (try raiding your spice rack).

Step Five

Lay out your pink “V” and crescent moon on a piece of thick, white vinyl. I used white upholstery vinyl. The reference pictures I found seem to show a narrow white line above the pink stripe on Moon’s boots. So, I put my cut line about 1/4″ above the pink “V” shape. Place your crescent moon on top of the “V” and make sure it is centered. Draw around the crescent shape and mark the bottom of the pink “V” shape.

Step Six

Cut the white vinyl so that you end up with a shape that roughly resembles…

Step Seven

Time to Heat-N-Bond! Match up your Heat-N-Bond “V” with your pink “V” shape. Make sure the vinyl is facing DOWN.


Step Eight

Iron it! Don’t leave your iron in one spot for too long. Move it around to distribute heat evenly. I find that when I’m applying Heat-N-Bond to this type of fabric, it wrinkles less if I put the iron on a no-steam setting. Make sure to read the directions about ironing time that come with your Heat-N-Bond!

Step Nine

Peel off your Heat-N-Bond. If you ironed it right, you’ll see a very distinctive shiny coating on your fabric. If the coating didn’t adhere to the fabric, iron it again.

Step Ten

Place your pink “V” on the white vinyl strip.

Step Eleven

Place your crescent moon on the white vinyl. Make sure your edges line up with your cut lines.

Step Twelve

Using a thick press cloth, iron all your Heat-N-Bonded items together. I would suggest top-stitching everything into place. This is a decorative and practical detail that will ensure a permanent bond for everything. Since I used vinyl, I did a light dusting of baby powder before stitching everything down.

Step Thirteen

Almost finished! Determine how long your V’s need to be by doing a test fit on the boots. Sew the V edges together.

Step Fourteen

I opted to glue these toppers onto the bootcovers. Of course, let your glue fully dry before trying them on! I don’t have pictures of the final bootcovers (yet) but I will soon =)

Thanks for reading my tutorial! If you have any questions, feel free to email me at

Inverted “V” Bootcover Toppers

Bias tape is a great, and time efficient, way to create borders on items like boot covers.  However, getting bias tape to lay neatly around corners can be a bit tricky.  Here are some tricks to make your bias tape borders look nice and crisp!  This is a great way to approach the upside down “V” shape featured on many Sailor Moon style boots!

You’ll want to start with a pair of non-stretch boot covers that have a an upside down “V” shape at the top.

Step One

Begin by cutting a length of bias tape that will fit around the area you will be bordering.  Remember to consider a small seam allowance (see below).  Because we are using this bias strip to create an inverted “V” shape as a bootcover top, we have cut a “house” shape at each end.

Step Two

Fold your bias tape in half, with the right sides together.  Sew along the cut edges, trim your seam allowance, and clip your corner.  Make sure you stitch around your corner twice to reinforce it.  Now, go get a chopstick.

Step Three

Turn your bias strip right side out and poke the corner with a chopstick.  Now, go iron it.

Step Four

Pin the bias strip over the top of your boot cover, making sure that it is centered.  At this point, you can either top stitch it to your cover, or hand sew it.  I recommend top stitching one side of the bias strip to the exterior of the boot cover and finishing the inside by hand.

Step Five

Finished! Hopefully these suggestions will get you on your way to making fabulous boot toppers.  If you have any questions, feel free to email me!

Regular Bootcover Toppers

This tutorial will explain how to create bootcover toppers in a simple stripe style.  Enjoy!

Step One

Because we are working with stretchy fabric for these bootcover toppers, we just cut a rectangle of fabric that is approximately 4″ wide and as long as the top length of the bootcover opening (plus extra for a seam allowance).  Why 4″ wide?  We want the finished edge to be about 1″ wide.  In this tutorial, we will continue explaining how to make a 1″ stripe.

For other widths, just remember to work in fourths.  Bias tape works well for this, too.

Sew your rectangle of fabric into a continuous strip.  Pin it to your bootcover.  Sew both pieces together, leaving a seam allowance of 1″.

Step Two

Flip your strip of fabric up.

Step Three

Fold it over so that approximately 1″ of your strip is visible.  Use a sewing gage if necessary.

Step Four

Fold the inside edge of your strip over so that it lines up with your original stitch line.  Whether you are looking at the inside or outside of the bootcover topper, the stripe should measure about 1″ wide.  At this point, I recommend finishing the inside edge with some hand stitching.

Step Five (Optional)

Embellish it!  In this case, I added a heart decoration so that the covers look like Sailor ChibiChibi’s boots.  Of course, you can always leave them as a plain and simple stripe depending on your character design.

Step Six

Finished!  Hopefully these suggestions will get you on your way to making fabulous bootcover toppers =)  If you have any questions, feel free to email me!

Making a Sailor Collar

Sailor collars are one of the most common costume elements when it comes to anime. Today, we’ll learn how to put one together!

Step One: Neckline

Decide what kind of neckline you’d like for your collar. For this particular collar, we’re just sewing it onto a basic scoop-neck top, so, we followed the neckline pattern for the original top.

Step Two: Draw it Out

Trace your neckline onto your pattern piece.

Step Three: Draw Out the Collar Shape

Starting at the center neckline, draw out a rough shape for the collar. Make sure the width of the collar piece is approximately half of the width across your shoulders (pattern piece is cut on a fold, so work in halves). There isn’t a set collar length, just make sure it is long enough that the bottom of the collar falls between the bottom of your shoulder blades and the center of your back.

Note: Make sure you account for a seam allowance.

Step Four: True Up your Edges

Using a curved ruler, clean up the edges of your rough pattern shape.

Step Five: Cut it out!

Cut out your pattern piece. If you forgot to include a seam allowance, that is fine, just remember to add one when you cut out your fabric pieces.

Step Six: Admire Your Pattern!

Now, you have a collar pattern piece. Onto the real fabric!

Step Seven: Cut Out Your Fabric

Place your collar pattern piece on your fabric, lining up the center back with the fabric fold. Cut out two collar pieces.

Step Eight: Decorate your Collar

Most sailor collars have some sort of border. You can use ribbon or bias trim. You’ll see in the rest of the tutorial pictures that we added some red trim. Set aside one of the collar pieces for your lining, and decorate the remaining piece.

Step Nine: Sew the Collar Pieces Together

Now, pin both collar pieces together. Make sure the sides you want to be visible are facing each other – the non-visible sides should be facing outward. Only stitch the outside edge of the collar. Do not stitch the neckline.

Remember, you’ll be turning the collar inside out later.

Step Ten: Admire your Work

Now, both collar pieces are sewn together. Make sure you do some reinforcing stitches at the corners of your collar.

Step Eleven: Clip the Corners and Curves

When you turn the collar inside out, you want it to be nice and flat. To make this happen, you’ll need to clip both corners and the curves near the front of the collar. Make sure you don’t clip into your original stitch line.

Step Twelve: Turn it Inside Out!

Carefully turn your collar inside out.

Step Thirteen: Chopstick Time!

Get your chopstick and…

…use it to make your corners look crisp and sharp. Be careful when you do this – don’t push the chopstick so hard into the corner that you push it through the fabric. This shouldn’t be much of an issue if you put reinforcing stitches at the corners.

Step Fourteen: Prep for Iron

Lay out your collar and get it ready for ironing.

Step Fifteen: Iron It!

This step makes a huge difference! Iron your collar nice and flat.

Step Sixteen: (Almost) Finished Collar

Now you have your finished collar piece. All you have to do now is…

Step Seventeen: Attach It!

Attach your collar as normal. There are many ways to attach the collar to the neckline. You may attach it in conjunction with a neckline facing or garment lining. If you have questions about facing attachment, you can view our facing tutorial here.


Thanks for reading my tutorial!
If you have any questions, feel free to email me!