Tips and Tricks
As our company has begun to grow, we have started receiving many questions from clients asking about makeup, wigs, dressing femme, etc. We thought it would be especially useful if we posted the most common questions we get asked here. Enjoy!
Please Note: These questions are primarily geared toward those new to makeup application and crossplaying. We will have different sections for general makeup questions, drag, crossdressing, crossplaying, cosplaying, and hair styling in the near future. Thank you for your patience.
Do I need to wear a wig cap?
How can I stop my makeup from collecting in wrinkles, creases, and smile lines?
Loose powder or pressed powder? What is the difference and which one should I use?
False eyelashes look so big and over the top to me. Do I need false eyelashes? If so, how do I put on the darn things?
False eyelashes, when done correctly, are a very easy way to bring some drama to the eye area. There are all sorts of different eyelashes ranging from small individual clusters to extra-thick-can-be-seen-a-mile-away lashes. The most important thing to keep in mind when using false eyelashes is to make sure they are glued as close to the natural eyelash line as possible. Nothing is a dead giveaway like false eyelashes glued to the middle of your eyelid! So, how to put them on you ask?
First, gently peel the lash from its container, being extra careful not to rip it. Hold it up to your eyelid (without glue) and determine if you need to cut off an extra length. We recommend cutting off extra length from the inside part of the lash (the shortest fibers) so you are able to retain the longest (and most dramatic) parts of the eyelash. Once you know both lashes will fit your eyelid, it is time to glue them on. We have seen our clients use one of two methods:
(1) Squeeze a thin trail of glue directly onto the lash and allow it to get "tacky" for about 30 seconds. Gently press the eyelash onto your eyelid - getting it as close to the natural lash line as possible. We like to start from the inside corner of the eye. Hold it on the eyelid for another 30-60 seconds. Allow it to dry thoroughly before opening your eye! Repeat this process for the other side.
(2) Squeeze a small amount of glue onto a makeup brush. Grab the tip of the eyelash and run it through the dot of glue. Some clients with prefer this method of glue application to method one. Continue to apply eyelashes as described above.
How can I get good foundation coverage and a natural (but still glamorous) look without looking to cakey or greasy?
I have just begun to crossplay. How do I choose the correct size when shopping for women's clothing?
Should I get acrylic nails?
How can I make fake nails stay on longer?
No matter how much I moisturize, my cuticles seem to stay dry and cracked. Is there a solution?
Do I need to wear a corset and/or shapewear under my clothes?
When I am crossplaying, how can I hide leg hair effectively without shaving?
Please Note: These questions are primarily geared toward those new to makeup application and crossplaying. We will have different sections for general makeup questions, drag, crossdressing, crossplaying, cosplaying, and hair styling in the near future. Thank you for your patience.
Do I need to wear a wig cap?
It all depends. If you're worried about getting the inside of your wig dirty (hair products, sweat, etc.) wearing a wig cap will help keep the inside of your wig cleaner. Caps are also nice if you don't have much hair to pin your wig into - you can pin the wig into the cap. If you have longer hair, a wig cap can help keep it all in one place. Alternatively, clients who need to have a wig that will move with them (dancers, performers, etc.) may opt to wrap an old stocking around their head so they have more fabric to pin their wig into.How do I wash my wig and how often should I wash it?
We recommend washing your wigs with Woolite or wig shampoo. Do not use regular hair shampoo - this is typically too harsh for most wigs and can ruin the wig/style. Use cold water if you wish to keep the style of the wig. Use hot water if you want to relax/straighten the style of the wig.Human hair or synthetic hair - which one is better?
As for wig caps - they are great for keeping the inside of the wig clean (dirt, sweat, etc.). If you have a lot of hair that needs to be kept in place, caps will do the job quite well. Many of our clients also like caps because it gives them something extra to pin their wig into. On the other hand, though, many of our clients don't wear wig caps at all - this is generally best only if you have short hair to begin with. Really, it is all a matter of preference.
Synthetic hair will hold its original style and is super easy to take care of and maintain. It cannot be styled in the same way as human hair, however. It will not stand up to heat very well and certain products (like hair gel) cannot be used effectively on synthetic wigs. Synthetic hair wigs come in a limitless variety of colors and are significantly cheaper than human hair wigs. While artificial fibers don't have the exact texture as human hair, they are pretty close - it is difficult to tell the difference, especially with high quality synthetics. Synthetic wig dying is extraordinarily difficult.How do I store my wig when I'm not using it?
Human hair wigs have to be re-styled much more often as human hair does not hold style the way artificial fibers do. Unlike synthetic hair, however, human hair can be styled with anything - hair dryer, curling iron, straightening iron, hot rollers, gel, hairspray, you name it. Some human hair wigs are prohibitively expensive and they are available in a limited range of colors. Because they are made of human hair, however, they can be dyed.
It is all a matter of preference depending on how much time you're willing to spend maintaining your wigs. We prefer the ease of synthetic hair.
Ideally, it needs to be secured to a wig block with t-pins and a hairnet over it. Many of our clients also place plastic grocery bags (seriously!) over their wigs to prevent them from gathering dust. Be careful with wigs that are back-heavy as the wig block they are on (especially the styrafoam ones) may tip over. Over time wigs with waves or curls in them may straighten out a bit. Be mindful of re-styling these types of wigs every so often. When traveling, wrap individual wigs in hair nets and store in separate bags. For short trips, many of our clients will turn a wig inside out and stuff it into itself - when they shake it back out, it has a little extra volume.How do I touch up my makeup, and how often should I do it?
A good makeup application should last anywhere from 8 to 12 hours! The only area that should need more frequent touching up is the mouth/lips, as lipstick is more prone to come off fairly easily (on cups, drinks, and of course, kisses!). Areas like the chin and upper lip may also require extra touching up just to keep beard stubble at bay. If you find yourself re-powdering your entire face every few hours, you may need to re-evaluate your makeup application techniques or the products you are using.
How can I stop my makeup from collecting in wrinkles, creases, and smile lines?
One of the most common questions we get asked is how to prevent eyeshadow from creasing on the lid. We highly recommend using some of our Eye Fix over the entire lid before applying any shadow. It will help your shadow to stick and can even be used just by itself as a highlight on the upper lid.
As for wrinkles and creases on other areas of the face - try not to cake on makeup. Excessive powder will only bring attention to wrinkles and creases. Some of our clients even use a little tape to pull the skin back before makeup application. We also recommend getting into a good skin care routine every day. Use moisturizer! Use anti-wrinkle serum! Take care of your face! Remember, a good clean canvas makes for a great work of art!
As for wrinkles and creases on other areas of the face - try not to cake on makeup. Excessive powder will only bring attention to wrinkles and creases. Some of our clients even use a little tape to pull the skin back before makeup application. We also recommend getting into a good skin care routine every day. Use moisturizer! Use anti-wrinkle serum! Take care of your face! Remember, a good clean canvas makes for a great work of art!
Loose powder or pressed powder? What is the difference and which one should I use?
When we do makeovers on our clients, we always finish with a little loose powder. We find that it is quite easy to use and gives a soft finish to the face. Just dab your brush into the powder, shake off the excess, and gently dust your face. Some clients, however, prefer to have a pressed powder compact for traveling, as it is less messy. Either one is just fine, it really just depends on what you feel more comfortable with - carrying around a brush and a small container of powder, or a small compact.
False eyelashes look so big and over the top to me. Do I need false eyelashes? If so, how do I put on the darn things?
False eyelashes, when done correctly, are a very easy way to bring some drama to the eye area. There are all sorts of different eyelashes ranging from small individual clusters to extra-thick-can-be-seen-a-mile-away lashes. The most important thing to keep in mind when using false eyelashes is to make sure they are glued as close to the natural eyelash line as possible. Nothing is a dead giveaway like false eyelashes glued to the middle of your eyelid! So, how to put them on you ask?
First, gently peel the lash from its container, being extra careful not to rip it. Hold it up to your eyelid (without glue) and determine if you need to cut off an extra length. We recommend cutting off extra length from the inside part of the lash (the shortest fibers) so you are able to retain the longest (and most dramatic) parts of the eyelash. Once you know both lashes will fit your eyelid, it is time to glue them on. We have seen our clients use one of two methods:
(1) Squeeze a thin trail of glue directly onto the lash and allow it to get "tacky" for about 30 seconds. Gently press the eyelash onto your eyelid - getting it as close to the natural lash line as possible. We like to start from the inside corner of the eye. Hold it on the eyelid for another 30-60 seconds. Allow it to dry thoroughly before opening your eye! Repeat this process for the other side.
(2) Squeeze a small amount of glue onto a makeup brush. Grab the tip of the eyelash and run it through the dot of glue. Some clients with prefer this method of glue application to method one. Continue to apply eyelashes as described above.
How can I get good foundation coverage and a natural (but still glamorous) look without looking to cakey or greasy?
The problem that many girls who are new to using makeup is that they simply use the wrong kind. Commercial foundations that you find in drug stores, supermarkets, or even the cosmetics counter are generally geared toward people who already have great skin. What ends up happening is that girls use these products thinking that if one layer isn't enough, surely two, three, or four layers are enough. Before you know it, you look like makeup roadkill. Don't use MORE product - just use LESS of a BETTER product.
For example, if you have discoloration or beard coverage to worry about, you will need to find a product that is more opaque - but not thick. For that reason, we exclusively use theatrical/performance foundations on all our clients. We recommend brands like Mehron (which we carry), Ben Nye, or Dermablend. We especially love the Mehron CreamStick Foundation because it covers appropriately, does not look/feel greasy, and gives a beautiful finish. We then follow it up with a dusting of loose powder with one of our large dome brushes.
What kinds of makeup are there and how do I use them?
There are so many makeup products out there, that we cannot possibly list them all. Here is a basic list. If you are interested in learning more about makeup and application, we recommend that you sign up for one of our makeover/instructional packages. They can be found on our Services page.
Face Products
Foundation: Can be found in liquid, stick, cream, and mousse forms. Used to even out skin tone. Apply with fingers, sponge, wedge, or directly from container.
Loose Powder: Used over foundation to give a smooth, finished look. Apply with a large dome brush or powder puff. Preferred by some over pressed powder due to ease of application.
Pressed Powder: Used over foundation to give a smooth, finished look. Preferred by some as it is less messy than loose powder.
Blush: Used to add color to cheeks, contour to face. Generally available in red, pink, peach, or brown tones. Apply with complexion brush (slightly smaller than dome brush) after powder. Also available in liquid, stick, cream, and mousse forms.
Eye Products
Eye Shadow: Used to apply color to the eye area. Apply with a brush, sponge tip applicator, or with fingers. Comes in pressed powder, loose powder, stick, or cream forms.
Eyeliner: Available in pencil or liquid forms. Most common colors used are black and brown. Applied around eye, close to lash line.
Mascara: Available in thick liquid form - comes with wand. Dip into mascara tube and run wand over eyelashes, starting at base and working to ends. Most common colors used are black and brown.
Brow Pencil:Used to define the brow line. Most common colors used are in the brown family.
Brow Definer: Similar to eyeshadow, and applied in the same fashion, to the brow area for definition and also to fill in blank spots. Eyeshadow that matches hair color may be used for the same purpose. We prefer brow definers over brow pencils.
Lip Products
Lipstick:Add some color to your lips! Lipsticks come in small tubes that are easy to carry in your pocket or purse. We carry a variety of colors in the pink, red, and brown color families.
Lipliner:Add some definition to your lips! Lipliners are great for creating a more pronounced lip area. Use them to outline your lips.
Lip Gloss:Glosses come in many colors - clear, pink, red, etc. - use them to add shine and depth to your lips.
Lip Balm:You need a good canvas to work off, right? Keep those lips moisturized with some lip balm. Moisturized lips = better application of lipstick. Cracked, dry lips = cracked, dry lipstick.
Face Products
Foundation: Can be found in liquid, stick, cream, and mousse forms. Used to even out skin tone. Apply with fingers, sponge, wedge, or directly from container.
Loose Powder: Used over foundation to give a smooth, finished look. Apply with a large dome brush or powder puff. Preferred by some over pressed powder due to ease of application.
Pressed Powder: Used over foundation to give a smooth, finished look. Preferred by some as it is less messy than loose powder.
Blush: Used to add color to cheeks, contour to face. Generally available in red, pink, peach, or brown tones. Apply with complexion brush (slightly smaller than dome brush) after powder. Also available in liquid, stick, cream, and mousse forms.
Eye Products
Eye Shadow: Used to apply color to the eye area. Apply with a brush, sponge tip applicator, or with fingers. Comes in pressed powder, loose powder, stick, or cream forms.
Eyeliner: Available in pencil or liquid forms. Most common colors used are black and brown. Applied around eye, close to lash line.
Mascara: Available in thick liquid form - comes with wand. Dip into mascara tube and run wand over eyelashes, starting at base and working to ends. Most common colors used are black and brown.
Brow Pencil:Used to define the brow line. Most common colors used are in the brown family.
Brow Definer: Similar to eyeshadow, and applied in the same fashion, to the brow area for definition and also to fill in blank spots. Eyeshadow that matches hair color may be used for the same purpose. We prefer brow definers over brow pencils.
Lip Products
Lipstick:Add some color to your lips! Lipsticks come in small tubes that are easy to carry in your pocket or purse. We carry a variety of colors in the pink, red, and brown color families.
Lipliner:Add some definition to your lips! Lipliners are great for creating a more pronounced lip area. Use them to outline your lips.
Lip Gloss:Glosses come in many colors - clear, pink, red, etc. - use them to add shine and depth to your lips.
Lip Balm:You need a good canvas to work off, right? Keep those lips moisturized with some lip balm. Moisturized lips = better application of lipstick. Cracked, dry lips = cracked, dry lipstick.
I have just begun to crossplay. How do I choose the correct size when shopping for women's clothing?
If you have never purchased women's clothing before, figuring out how the sizing system works can be a bit overwhelming. Unlike men's clothing, which typically goes by waist size or letter size (S, M, L, etc.), women's clothing can be sorted by numerical size, bust measurement, hip measurement, waist measurement, or a letter size. Here is a breakdown of all the different systems:
Waist Size: Men's waist sizes will typically start at 28. Women's may start as low as 22. You'd think this number would correspond to your waist measurement in inches, but it does not. The numerical size and your actual size will most likely differ by two inches or more. For example, a men's size 32 will fit a man with a waist measurement of 32-34 depending on how tight he prefers his pants to be. A women's size 20 corset, however, may fit a woman with a waist line of 18 to 28 inches.
Letter size: This one is pretty simple. Small is denoted by an S, Medium is denoted by a M, large gets an L, and so on. Items with letter sizes usually have some stretchy fabric in them or are less tailored than other types of items with different sizing systems.
Bust Measurement: This is reserved for dresses and tops. Like a waist size, this will differ by a few inches as well. For example, a woman may buy a dress that is marked as a size 36, but whose actual bust measurement hovers around 32 or 34.
Hip measurement: This is reserved for skirts, pants, and the like. Like the waist and bust measurements, this will differ by a few inches.
Numerical Size: As if everything wasn't confusing enough, there are also numerical sizes. These are solely reserved for women's and children's clothing. Dressmakers, over the years, have come to use industry standards for determining the size of a garment. What does this mean exactly? The fashion industry creates standard sizes based on average measurements of different body types. Although we're all different shapes and sizes, it would be impossible (and impractical) to make just as many sizes available in a retail store - so, the fashion industry narrowed it down to roughly 20 sizes or so and makes clothing based off those sizes. For example, a size 0 will probably average a 32" bust, a 24" waist, and 34" hips. A size 10 will probably average a 36" bust, a 27" waist, and 38" hips. All dressmakers are different, however, and each size may vary from company to company. This is why certain companies' clothing tends to run "small" or "big."
Waist Size: Men's waist sizes will typically start at 28. Women's may start as low as 22. You'd think this number would correspond to your waist measurement in inches, but it does not. The numerical size and your actual size will most likely differ by two inches or more. For example, a men's size 32 will fit a man with a waist measurement of 32-34 depending on how tight he prefers his pants to be. A women's size 20 corset, however, may fit a woman with a waist line of 18 to 28 inches.
Letter size: This one is pretty simple. Small is denoted by an S, Medium is denoted by a M, large gets an L, and so on. Items with letter sizes usually have some stretchy fabric in them or are less tailored than other types of items with different sizing systems.
Bust Measurement: This is reserved for dresses and tops. Like a waist size, this will differ by a few inches as well. For example, a woman may buy a dress that is marked as a size 36, but whose actual bust measurement hovers around 32 or 34.
Hip measurement: This is reserved for skirts, pants, and the like. Like the waist and bust measurements, this will differ by a few inches.
Numerical Size: As if everything wasn't confusing enough, there are also numerical sizes. These are solely reserved for women's and children's clothing. Dressmakers, over the years, have come to use industry standards for determining the size of a garment. What does this mean exactly? The fashion industry creates standard sizes based on average measurements of different body types. Although we're all different shapes and sizes, it would be impossible (and impractical) to make just as many sizes available in a retail store - so, the fashion industry narrowed it down to roughly 20 sizes or so and makes clothing based off those sizes. For example, a size 0 will probably average a 32" bust, a 24" waist, and 34" hips. A size 10 will probably average a 36" bust, a 27" waist, and 38" hips. All dressmakers are different, however, and each size may vary from company to company. This is why certain companies' clothing tends to run "small" or "big."
So, how on earth do I figure out what size I am?
Well, you've got two options. You can (1) try on the clothing, or (2) use a measuring tape. As some ladies may be timid or unable to try on clothing in a department store, using a measuring tape may be a good option. Take measurements of four key areas:
1. Bust: Make sure you're wearing the bra/padding you'd normally wear en femme. Place your measuring tape around the fullest part of the bust and note how many inches it is around. Do this in a mirror to make sure the tape is parallel to the ground and not drooping down in the back.
2. Waist: Your natural waist is at your belly button. But, many contemporary styles of clothing are worn a few inches below the waist. Use the same process as for taking a bust measurement, but keep in mind whether the clothing you're looking at sits on your natural waist, or just slightly below.
3. Hips: Take this measurement in the same way as you did for the bust and waist. Place your measuring tape around the fullest part of your hips and backside. Make sure the tape is sitting level!
4. Across the Back: Many girls forget this very important measurement. Women's clothing is cut for smaller shoulders/backs. Measure across your back where the shoulder seams should be. This will be especially useful when buying tailored items such as jackets and coats.
5. Compare Measurements: Now that you have your measurements, go do some shopping! Is the shoulder-to-shoulder seam the same length as your measurement? Is the around-the-waist measurement bigger, smaller, the same? Use this as a guide to determine the correct size to buy.
1. Bust: Make sure you're wearing the bra/padding you'd normally wear en femme. Place your measuring tape around the fullest part of the bust and note how many inches it is around. Do this in a mirror to make sure the tape is parallel to the ground and not drooping down in the back.
2. Waist: Your natural waist is at your belly button. But, many contemporary styles of clothing are worn a few inches below the waist. Use the same process as for taking a bust measurement, but keep in mind whether the clothing you're looking at sits on your natural waist, or just slightly below.
3. Hips: Take this measurement in the same way as you did for the bust and waist. Place your measuring tape around the fullest part of your hips and backside. Make sure the tape is sitting level!
4. Across the Back: Many girls forget this very important measurement. Women's clothing is cut for smaller shoulders/backs. Measure across your back where the shoulder seams should be. This will be especially useful when buying tailored items such as jackets and coats.
5. Compare Measurements: Now that you have your measurements, go do some shopping! Is the shoulder-to-shoulder seam the same length as your measurement? Is the around-the-waist measurement bigger, smaller, the same? Use this as a guide to determine the correct size to buy.
Should I get acrylic nails?
If you are able to grow our your natural nails, go ahead and do so, and get a regular manicure that smooths out the nail bed, removes dead skin, and comes with a polish application. If you are unable to grow our your natural nails, acrylic nails may be an option for you. As they are quite difficult/time consuming to remove, we only recommend acrylic nails if you live en femme 24/7 or are planning on dressing for an extended period of time (a few days at least). Be especially careful when getting acrylics done that the nail salon does not grind down your natural nail bed. When getting any manicure, we recommendvFrench tips to our clients. During a French manicure, the nail technician paints the tips of the nails white, and does the rest of the nail in a neutral peach or pink color. We find that this not only looks quite elegant, but will also match any outfit.
How can I make fake nails stay on longer?
Some girls opt for glue on nails as a quick solution that looks just about as nice as a regular manicure or acrylic nail job. Before applying glue on nails, make sure your cuticles are neatly trimmed or pushed back. Be sure that your nails are free of any oils or dirt. After a thorough washing, try wiping them off with a cotton ball and some rubbing alcohol. This will ensure a dry, clean nail bed. Lightly (very lightly!) rough up the nail bed with a file. Only file in one direction! Pre-select each of your 10 nails by testing one which ones fit each finger best. Lay them out before you begin to glue them on. Place a drop of glue near the bottom of each nail. Press the nail onto your natural nail bed and hold it there for a minute or two. Repeat for your other fingers and voila! You will now have beautiful nails! To remove them, soak each finger in nail polish remover (we recommend non-acetone). Once they have been soaked, they should pop right off. If you take good care of them, you can even reuse them. Just re-glue!
No matter how much I moisturize, my cuticles seem to stay dry and cracked. Is there a solution?
Conventional lotions tend not to moisturize for very long. After a few hours, you may find yourself re-applying. Cuticles and hands seem especially prone to drying out quickly. We recommend a product called Climb On! to our clients to solve this problem. It is not a lotion. It is actually a hand/skin salve that is made of 100% natural ingredients. It is available in a bar or creme.
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| Climb On! Cream Sale! $12.50 |
Climb On! Lip Lube $3.00 |
Climb On! Bar Sale! $7.87 |
Do I need to wear a corset and/or shapewear under my clothes?
It depends on how comfortable (or uncomfortable) you are willing to be. Well made corsets are a wonderful option for ladies who would like to achieve a bit more of an hourglass figure. They can add a beautiful shape to anyone's figure which can, in turn, make you clothes drape and fit quite nicely. However, be warned that corsets, even if they fit perfectly, are generally not all that comfortable! Some experienced corset wearers achieve waist reductions of 4" or more. We do not recommend this drastic of a change if you've never used a corset before. When first starting, begin with a 1" to 2" waist reduction.
If you just want to just smooth out your look, we recommend full body shapers, hip and/or butt pads, stockings with built in support, etc. You'll be amazed at the difference wearing the proper undergarments can make!
If you just want to just smooth out your look, we recommend full body shapers, hip and/or butt pads, stockings with built in support, etc. You'll be amazed at the difference wearing the proper undergarments can make!
When I am crossplaying, how can I hide leg hair effectively without shaving?
The #1 mistake that many girls make when trying to hide leg hair is wearing only one pair of stockings. Especially if you have dark leg hair, one pair will not do the trick. Many of our clients wear two, or even three pairs of stockings. Some may even wear one pair of regular stockings with fishnets on top to help camouflage leg hair. You many also want to consider patterned stockings or dance tights. We recommend Danskin dance tights, as they are quite thick, will last a long time, and come in a multitude of colors.
Answers That Are Coming Soon!
- What is the easiest (and most painless) way to do an effective tuck?
- What size breasts will look best on me?
- What style of clothing will look best on me?
- What kind of skin care routine should I go through each day? Do I even need a daily skin care routine?
- What is the best way to remove makeup?
- I shave my face right before I apply my makeup - but after 6 hours my stubble starts to show again! What can I do?
- What kinds of makeup brushes do I need?
- How do I pick out a wig that will look natural on me?
- What kind of hair spray should I use on my wig?
- Do I need special combs and brushes to style my wig?
- Whenever I wear a wig without bangs it looks very unnatural. How can I create a natural looking hairline with bang-less wigs?
